ANDALUCÍA - CÁDIZ - EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARIA - APONIENTE - VISIT 1
This is a review from 2015, the restaurant has moved to new premises and has now has three Michelin Stars
Two Michelin Stars
Chef de Mar Ángel León Gonzales now, has his third Michelin star in his ultra modern restaurant, which he has recently moved into. It is, a converted 18th century flour mill, overlooking the estuary and most appropriately looks out to sea, by the banks of the Guadalete River.
The old restaurant is now an up-market tapas bar/restaurant and is called
LA TABERNA DEL CHEF DEL MAR
Calle Puerto Escondido, 6, 11500 El Puerto de Santa María, Cádiz
+34 956 11 20 93
A review of the new restaurant will follow in time.
Two Michelin Stars
The old restaurant, which was down a side street in the port of El Puerto de Santa Maria, was where we had this particular meal. Chef Ángel León made his name by taking traditional seafood and fish ingredients (basically seafood with a molecular twist) and turning them, into such delights, as you would find on the tasting menu below.
Tortillitas de camarones (the locally famous, brown shrimp fritters)
Raspberry trampantojo, embryonic yolk, cured soy breaded flying fish roe, seasoned, with a subtle touch of wasabi.
Grilled sardines cooked on olive stones, dressed in fried flakes and served on a meringue of sardine fat and tapioca
Pickled oyster with chamomile and soy, oyster powder, foam oyster, oyster leaf and plankton
Gazpachuelo (fish soup and mayonnaise), with mussels, sea jelly, nitro rocks tomato water and plankton.
Monkfish cheeks in squid ink
Sea urchine cone, marinated mackerel (3 minutes at 70 degrees) and mayonnaise, made with the marinade itself, sea asparagus, fermented radish and plankton.
Pijota cococha (small hake), breadcrumbs in green sauce and garlic flower nasturtium
Plankton, plankton and plankton, served on a wafer jelly sea water and a vaporized citrus
Carpaccio of octopus, seasoned, with a gelatinous bay broth and sea cucumbers.
Sultana, coconut and yoghurt.
Candy, salt, corn foam, chocolate, tea and smoked oil.
Refreshing cannelloni pineapple and sweet-sour apple with tiger mussel cocoa.
There are two menus to choose from, €150 to €185.
And two wine Pairing menus, €57 to €75.
Be aware, that the wine pairing is all sherry and as you have 24 courses of food and 24 glasses of sherry from 12 different sherries, this can be a bit overpowering! There are, of course, excellent unfortified wines to choose from.
The service is friendly, informed and very efficient, although, they could, maybe warn the uneducated, that the wine pairing is all sherry. We know that sherry is wine but this could cause some confusion as it can be quite heavy to have to drink it all through the meal.
Calle Francisco Cossi Ochoa, 11500 El Puerto de Santa María, Cádiz
+34 956 85 18 70
Twitter @Aponiente @chefdelmar
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