ASADOR LA CASTILLERÍA To reach this meat mecca, just outside the pretty Andalusian hill-top village of Vejer de la Frontera, you must go up an extremely small road, but it is well worth the effort. You will find it is an idyllic setting amongst the trees, which ensures it is coolish on warm nights. Juan Valdés and Ani Melero run the restaurant. The restaurant is a selector, ager, ripener and steakhouse all in one. There are only a few of these around, and here they have their

VENTA EL TORO This is a small, discreet, countryside Venta without any pretensions. There are a few tables with a bar inside, and two terraces where most of the action takes place. Inside tables are used in more inclement weather. The terrace across the road runs over the stream that runs through Santa Lucía. Some of these tables were already reserved, so I suggest arriving early or making a reservation. The traditional inside area is wall-to-wall with their bullfighting phot