MESÓN TXISTU We returned to Mesón Txistu Madrid, a traditional Basque restaurant a little off the beaten track. Pedro Abrego Velasco, a Navarrese restaurateur who grew up in San Sebastián, founded it in 1972. After spending ten years in Venezuela, Abrego returned to Spain and eventually settled in Madrid. Following the success of his first restaurant, El Caserío, he opened Mesón Txistu, bringing traditional Basque cooking to the capital. More than 50 years later, it remains r

LA CUCHARA DE SAN TELMO We visited La Cuchara de San Telmo, San Sebastián, one of our favourite pintxo bars in the old town, tucked away in a side alley off 31 de Agosto Kalea, at the back of the historic city. It’s definitely worth seeking out, so don’t hesitate to go in, even if it’s busy. La Cuchara de San Telmo is known for its traditional Basque spoon dishes, which differ from pintxos — small portions of food often served on a slice of bread and sometimes held together w

CASA JULIAN In 2026, we revisited Casa Julián Tolosa, this remarkable, easily overlooked little restaurant, now famous on TV, located in the Basque countryside town of Tolosa, which is 28 km inland from San Sebastián. Tolosa is a town and municipality in the Basque province of Gipuzkoa, northern Spain. It sits in the Oria River valley, which runs through the town. When you arrive at the restaurant and step inside, you might initially feel like you’re in the wrong place. You’l

RESTAURANTE SACHA This isn’t the most straightforward restaurant in Madrid to find, even with GPS. It’s tucked away in a corner on the right-hand side of the building, set back from the street. Everything looks great: small but cosy, busy, and traditional as you enter. The restaurant opened in 1972 and was founded by Carlos Hormaechea and Pitila Mosquera. Their son, Sacha Hormaechea, now runs it, after whom the restaurant is named. It is located in a neighbourhood just north

GANDARIAS JATETXEA We returned to Casa Gandarias San Sebastián, one of the best-known pintxos bars in the Parte Vieja, for our regular fill of pintxo de solomillo and red wine! We had a bottle of El Lagar de Isilla Paraje Peñalobos Tinta del Pais 2018 DOC Ribera del Duero. This was a good match with the solomillo. Solomillo pintxos. The famous Basque Gildas. Guindilla pepper, green olive and fresh anchovy - named after Rita Hayworth (hot, tall and spicy). During this visit,

BAR SPORT We returned to Bar Sport, once a bit of an insider tip, but it now gets very busy. True to its name, this place is especially popular during sports events, but it also offers beautifully assembled pintxos throughout the week. This authentic bar offers traditional pintxos in a lively atmosphere, all at very reasonable prices. Popular among locals, it features a rustic interior and provides a classic Basque dining experience. The bar is further enhanced by a good sele

For this visit to San Sebastián for a pintxos bar crawl in June 2026, we concentrated on pintxos rather than sit-down meals. We started our pintxo tour in Parte Vieja (the old town). We always prefer hot pintxos, as they are made to order. The pintxos on the bar are not a problem, but you may eat too much bread! We tend to have no more than two pintxos and a glass of wine or beer per bar, so we don’t get too full too early. The best time to visit pintxo bars is 8.30 — 10.30 p

HOTELA M&UGA We stayed for three nights in the Basque Country town of Elorrio at Hotela M&UGA. The town stands out for its unique medieval and modern heritage. In 1964, it was declared a Medieval Heritage Site. It is set in a green valley, with the river Zumelegi running down its centre. Strolling through the streets lined with palaces and ancestral houses, crafted from stone and intricately carved masonry dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries, is truly delightful. We ch

RESTAURANTE ASADOR TXAKOLI SIMÓN After a 15- to 20-minute walk from the Funicular de Artxanda, you arrive at Restaurante Asador Txakolli Simón, high above Bilbao. Óscar García, the grill master at this restaurant, has a particular fondness for the Friesian breed of cow, known for its great value for money. On particularly busy days, he can prepare up to eight rib strips in a single service. When the sun is shining in Bilbao, you go to Artxanda, the viewpoint of Bilbao, and ta

BILBAO - PLAZA NUEVA PINTXO BAR CRAWL On a recent trip to Bilbao, we had a little pintxo bar crawl around the Plaza Nueva. The arcaded Plaza Nueva is bustling with locals from early evening onward. Take note of the local tradition of pacing yourself when enjoying a txikito, a small glass of wine or beer. In pintxos bars, it is common for patrons to throw paper napkins on the floor, while only shy tourists tend to leave them on tables or other surfaces. On weekends, the area