ASADOR LA CASTILLERÍA To reach this meat mecca, just outside the pretty Andalusian hill-top village of Vejer de la Frontera, you must go up an extremely small road, but it is well worth the effort. You will find it is an idyllic setting amongst the trees, which ensures it is coolish on warm nights. Juan Valdés and Ani Melero run the restaurant. The restaurant is a selector, ager, ripener and steakhouse all in one. There are only a few of these around, and here they have their

VENTA EL TORO This is a small, discreet, countryside Venta without any pretensions. There are a few tables with a bar inside, and two terraces where most of the action takes place. Inside tables are used in more inclement weather. The terrace across the road runs over the stream that runs through Santa Lucía. Some of these tables were already reserved, so I suggest arriving early or making a reservation. The traditional inside area is wall-to-wall with their bullfighting phot

CASA BIGOTE      Michelin Bib Gourmand It was in 1951 when a local sailor, Fernando Hermoso, opened a despacho de Vinos selling manzanilla to fishermen. Fernando grew an Errol Flynn-style moustache, and his friends started calling him "El Bigote".   Manzanilla, a salty, extremely dry sherry (the salt comes from the local bodegas' proximity to the sea air), originates from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and you will still find it on almost every table. In 1970, Fernando Jr. took over

RESTAURANTE VENTORRILLO DEL CHATO This Restaurant is a beautiful historic Goya-esque 18th-century roadhouse, situated near the beach dunes, an oasis in the heart of a desert strip. Jose Manuel Cordoba makes magic with fish here.   We come here for the Tortillitas de Camarones (shrimp fritters). The ones here are larger but also incredibly crispy, with more batter edges and significantly more shrimp than any others we had. They are great with a cold fino sherry. Other excellen

FRANCISCO LA FONTANILLA We returned to this old favourite in August and arrived just as the late summer sun was setting. You will find the fabulous seafood displayed in the cabinet before you. So you can have a good look and be ready to choose. The restaurant was filling up at 8.30 pm, as is the way in Andalucía. We settled down, and after making our choices, we started the meal with, Fabulosas anchoas de Cantábrico. The restaurant's own Cantabrian anchovies. Ensalada mixta (