GANDARIAS JATETXEA We returned to Casa Gandarias for our regular fill of pintxo de solomillo and red wine! We had a bottle of El Lagar de Isilla Paraje Peñalobos Tinta del Pais 2018 DOC Ribera del Duero . This was a good match with the solomillo. The famous Basque Gildas. Guindilla pepper, green olive and fresh anchovy - named after Rita Haywood (hot, tall and spicy). During this visit, we also had a sit-down lunch with a group at the restaurant. Something not done before a

For this visit to San Sebastian in June 2025, we concentrated on pintxos rather than sit-down meals. We started our pintxo tour in Parte Vieja (the old town). We always prefer hot pintxos, as they are made to order. The pintxos on the bar are not a problem, but you may eat too much bread! We tend to have no more than two pintxos and a glass of wine or beer per bar, so we don’t get too full too early. The best time to visit pintxo bars is 8.30 — 10.30 pm. Several pintxo bars a

RESTAURANTE ELKANO One Michelin Star Getaria is the picture-postcard Basque Country fishing village that produced designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, Plácido Domingo’s mother, and Juan Sebastián Elcano (the first mariner to circumnavigate the globe). You can wander down the old streets to the harbour, where you will see the fishing fleet, walking past various shops selling their wares. There are stunning little beaches here. Set on a crossroads above the harbour of Getaria, Res

LA CUCHARA DE SAN TELMO We visited one of our favourite pintxo bars in the old town of San Sebastián. It’s located in a side alley off 31 de Agosto Kalea, at the back of the historic city. It’s definitely worth seeking out, so don’t hesitate to walk in, even if it’s busy. Thankfully, we were no longer under COVID-19 restrictions, and everything had returned to normal. The list of pintxos looked very inviting indeed. The small kitchen staff were hard at work, as usual. We made

HOTELA M&UGA We stayed for three nights in the Basque Country town of Elorrio. The Town stands out for its unique medieval and modern heritage. In 1964, it was declared a Medieval Heritage Site. It is set in a green valley with the river Zumelegi running down its centre. It is a delightful walk through the streets of palaces and ancestral houses, built of stone and carved masonry from the 17th and 18th centuries. We chose to stay in the M&UGA Hotela. The hotel is a minute’s w

The restaurant is now iBAi by Paulo Airaudo ONE MICHELIN STAR (new 2025) We have not yet seen this new version. This centrally located restaurant, a well-known name in local cuisine under chef Alicio Garro, has undergone a transformation and gained new life thanks to award-winning chef Paulo Airaudo, who introduces his own interpretation of classic recipes. The establishment pays great respect to the original Ibai. Despite the recognition of a culinary star, the entrance

I RESTAURANTE KAIA-KAIPE Michelin Plate IIO We returned to the fishing port of Getaria on the Basque Coast and revisited an old favourite, the excellent Restaurante Kaia-Kaipe. Getaria is the picture-postcard image of a Basque Country fishing village. Walking up from the car park, we approached the village. When you reach the restaurant, you can see the famous outdoor grill, where the fish is cooked over hot coals on open wire-mesh grills. The restaurant is divided into

Vitoria-Gasteiz is the capital of the Basque Autonomous Community in northern Spain. The Gothic-style Santa María Inmaculada Cathedral features a sculpted facade and towering columns in the medieval quarter. The 17th-century Plaza de la Virgen Blanca features a monument to the 1813 Battle of Vitoria. The Church of San Miguel has a sizeable baroque altarpiece and a statue of the White Virgin, the city's patron saint. Beethoven dedicated his Opus 91, often called the " Battle

ASADOR BEDUA On the banks of the Urola River, just outside the village of Zumaia, you will find Asador Bedua, a restaurant with generations of family history, based on fresh produce from its own garden. It all started four generations ago, when their ancestors offered potato omelettes with green peppers to the residents of Zumaia who came to the grill by rowing upriver in their boats. The Bedua grill is a benchmark of Basque gastronomy. Over its embers, you will see roast be

ASADOR ETXEBARRI One Michelin Star Although not the easiest place to find, this beautiful, rustic, restored stone house is a couple of kilometres out of town. It has a bar at the ground-floor entrance and a couple of stunning dining rooms on the first floor. The renowned chef Victor Arguinzoniz, who deserves his one Michelin star, cooks all the high-quality produce on various charcoal grills. There is no molecular stuff here; it is just fresh, quality food with unique fla