A DAY & NIGHT OF FOOD & ADVENTURE IN IBIZA WITH RENOIR GUIDES TOUR 2
After meeting Jonathon Lipsin and Bernadette Mundy on Facebook through our joint love of Ibiza, Formentera and music, I invited them over to Ibiza for a days tour of the Island for food, fun and frolics each year.
This was to be our second trip and we met at our usual meeting place outside the Café Mar y Sol in Ibiza Town after their short sea trip from Formenter, we were joined this time by my friends from London, Danny and Pankaj.
Once settled in our hire car I gave them a CD I had made of their favourite music (this had become a regular tradition) and we set off for our tour. Leaving the busy Eivissa (Ibiza town) we headed up to the north of the Island to the more sedate village of Sant Carles de Peralta (San Carlos) and a to place Bernadette had fond memories of.
CA N'ANITA (BAR ANITA) Plaza de la Iglesia, 07850 Sant Carles de Peralta +34 971 33 50 90 This was a famous ex-pat meeting place in Sant Carles de Peralta. The walls are covered in art, from when struggling artists used to pay for food with their paintings. We popped in for a early morning coffee and cake.
It is one of the oldest bars in Ibiza and still functions as a post office. There are mailboxes in the main dining area which acts as a meeting place for locals, as well as a functional hub for the small village.
They serve good food in a buzzy friendly atmosphere, you must try, their legendary homemade hierbas.
The bar is set in a pleasant village, the church is beautiful and it's a nice spot to walk around viewing the few shops.
On certain nights, after dinner, it's just a short 15-minute stroll down to the Las Dalias Hippy Night Market.
On Leaving Sant Carles, we headed to the coast and to an intriguing little restaurant that I knew of.
EL BIGOTES Cala Mastella, Sant Carles de Peralta +34 650 79 76 33 This Chiringuito is known as "The Fish Shack" or El Bigotes (The Moustache, which refers to the proprietor)
They serve a set meal only and legend has it, the King of Spain was refused a table because they were full!
We did not eat here on this occasion as we hadn't booked but it is a nice spot to visit. Previously, when I have been here, you are served with some olives, pan payes (local bread) alioli and some white house wine, whilst a huge pot of fish stew is being prepared freshly in front of you.
The first serving is a large plate of local rockfish and potatoes, cooked in a delicious saffron broth. Be aware, the whole fish, head and tails, goes in. The meal is served at 2 pm, at once, to the entire restaurant.
After this serving, they bring paella rice and small squid, cooked in the remaining saffron broth.
There is a good small family beach nearby, over the rocks, as is, Cala Llenya around the cove.
Everyone seemed to be enjoying the visit, well almost!
A swing is available for the big kids amongst us!
After our little spot of sightseeing we headed further up the coast to
Pou de Lleó, Sant Carles de Peralta +34 971 18 78 79 This is an old school Ibicencan fish restaurant, with stunning views over the bay.
The menu, features, fish, paellas and the house speciality, Bullit de Peix (a traditional Ibicencan fish and potato stew).
With a solid wine list and sea views overlooking Pou des Lleó a night at Salvadó is quintessentially Ibicencan.
For lunch we had
Calamar plancha con patatas fritas
Mejillones a la marinera
Across the bay is the pretty little beach of Pou des Lleó,
It has a very nice cosy chiringuito serving drinks and snacks.
so we went there for a few drinks and a relaxing swim.
CHIRINGUITO POU DES LLEÓ
Pou des Lleó, 07850 Santa Eulália des Riu +34 971 335 274 www.poudeslleo.com
This Chiringuito belongs to the Hostal Pou des Lleó which is 500 yards up the road, which is one of the most typical Ibicencan restaurants in the north of the island.
It has a peaceful terrace with simple décor where lunch and dinner is served.
The rooms are basic but clean and there is a swimming pool outside.
Once refilled we headed back down to the south of the Island with the relaxing music playing in the car.
Pankaj decided, this was a good time for a little nap!
After about a 40-minute journey, we pulled up to the stunning Ses Salinas salt flats for some rice at
CA'N SALINAS EL REY DE LA FIDEUÀ
Carrer de l´Illa d´Eivissa, 6, 07818 Sant Josep de sa Talaia, +34 971 39 65 63 www.reydelafideua.com
You meet the friendly parrot on arrival.
Here you will find wonderful Valèncian style paella and fideuá, both are served at this restaurant.
Traditional things like rabbit, snails and seafood are heavily featured ingredients in these rice and noodle dishes.
We had the seafood paella
and a local dessert, greixonera, an Ibicenan bread pudding.
My suggestion is, to have dinner there slightly before the sunset, just to enjoy the colour of the sun and watch the flamingos on the salt flats opposite the restaurant. This is Ibiza!
We were now rather full, we then headed to the famous beach of ses Salinas for a little light dancing in the sun at
SA TRINXA Platja de ses Salinas, 07817 Sant Jordi de Ses Salines +34 637 82 61 83 www.satrinxa.com This is the place for people-watching.
Parades and performances can take place all day.
Live music is playing most days.
saxophonists and violins abound.
Sa Trinxa is set at the left far end of the beach attracting Ibiza's most beautiful, often, in their butt-naked glory.
Sounds drift across the beach from chillout legend, Jon Sa Trinxa (Monday & Wednesday).
it’s the perfect place for a jug of sangria and a dance in the sand, whilst a smattering of fashion nudists (it’s all about the piercings) makes for an adults-only atmosphere. If you need to eat, you can, we didn’t! but the food is good here.
After sunset the crowds drift away and we join them on our the way back to the car and then on to Ibiza town to drop off Bernadette and Jonathon for there ferry back to Formentera.
After saying our goodbyes and see you next year we headed back to our hotel in Sant Antoni (San Antonio) for a nightcap and surprisingly, some more food!
Carrer de la Mar, 34, 07820 Sant Antoni de Portmany
+34 971 34 08 44
Hostals in Spain are not like hostels in the UK and are sometimes, excellent, boutique hotels. This is a very friendly hostal, at the back of the town. The rooms are very clean and tidy, it also has nice size swimming Pool
It is run by the ever friendly Miki and his wife.
It also as its own car park for residents which can be a Godsend in the summer months.
Returning to Formentera after many years made Jonathon relive his early favourites in music. These mixes have some of them.
There is also A Mix for Bernadette "The blues lady of Formentera"
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Music on Mixcloud - Mikeyb