RESTAURANTE SALTXIPI Chef Jon Ortega is at the stove grilling sensational-looking gambas, hake, monkfish, turbot and T-bone steaks. Famous for its spider crabs, which it keeps in the basement, this has become a place for trendy thirty-somethings. Look out for the Ibiza-style chill-out to be added soon. The food is traditional, so if you order turbot or red sea bream, you get that —no extras, expertly cooked. The menu is quite spider crab-based, so it should be with such a g

CASA JULIAN This is an unremarkable, easy-to-miss little Restaurant in the little-known Tolosa, 28 km inland from San Sebastián. Once you find it and walk in, you will think you are in the wrong place. You will see an area containing several fridges and a load of crates, and you are likely to turn around and walk out again until you are greeted warmly and seated in the old-fashioned dining room, which doesn't look like it's changed much in a century. The steaks are cooked to