MADRID - LA VENENCIA

Sep 26

2 min read

LA VENENCIA

The fabulous La Venencia Madrid is like stepping back into an Andalusian sherry bar from the 1920s or ’30s. The bar has a fascinating history; many believe anti-Franco supporters met here during the Spanish Civil War.

It is doubtful the place has changed much over the years, with its unassuming sign above the door, dusty old sherry bottles behind the bar, and vintage posters on the walls, all giving it great character.

This refreshingly unmodernised, quirky old bar serves only sherry. You will see ancient, smoke-stained walls and casks of various sherries, from which they fill unlabelled bottles. The menu is written on a piece of paper posted on the wall and lists just five sherries.

Fino Manzanilla Amontillado Palo Cortado Oloroso

La Venencia menu and prices on an earlier visit.

No sweet sherry, like Pedro Ximénez, is available.

This place offers serious value for money. Stay a while and try all five (be careful, it may be a long walk home!), plus a few tapas, although you receive nuts, olives or crisps with each sherry.

Tapas are all cold and include,

Stunning anchoas del Cantábrico, some of the best we have tasted.

Queso Manchego (sheep’s cheese)

Huevas (pressed tuna roe). Mojama (tuna loin, salted and air-dried for three weeks, the jamón ibérico of the sea). Chorizo (cured spicy pork sausage). Cecina (salt-cured, air-dried beef).

It has a casual, relaxed atmosphere but can occasionally get very busy at times. Regulars enjoy a glass or two near the entrance, while many young and old Madrileños sit and chat at the tables in the raised section at the back.

The sometimes surly waiters (I think it is part of a game; they can be reasonably friendly!) are not waiters but masters of a dying craft. They pour the sherry, carve the dried meats and cheeses, and keep your bill up to date with chalk on the bar.

They do not pander to you. Please don’t take pictures without asking very nicely, or try to leave a tip, as they may throw you out!

Shelves behind the bar hold many extremely old-looking sherry bottles with labels, but the dust suggests they are for decoration only.

Reading about sherry before venturing into La Venencia may help, as it will enhance your experience. Just go and enjoy this place; it is simple and incredibly unique.