LA CUCHARA DE SAN TELMO We returned to a favourite pintxo bar in San Sebastián's old town. It is down a side alley off 31 de Agosto Kalea at the back of the old city. It is well worth seeking out, and do not be shy about walking in, even if it is busy. Thankfully, we were now free of COVID-19 restrictions, and things were back to normal. The list of pintxos looked very inviting indeed. The small kitchen staff were hard at work, as usual. We headed for the bar and dived into

HOTELA M&UGA We stayed for three nights in the Basque Country town of Elorrio. The Town stands out for its unique medieval and modern heritage. In 1964, it was declared a Medieval Heritage Site. It is set in a green valley with the river Zumelegi running down its centre. It is a delightful walk through the streets of palaces and ancestral houses, built of stone and carved masonry from the 17th and 18th centuries. We chose to stay in the M&UGA Hotela. The hotel is a minute’s w

Vitoria-Gasteiz is the capital of the Basque Autonomous Community in northern Spain. The Gothic-style Santa María Inmaculada Cathedral features a sculpted facade and towering columns in the medieval quarter. The 17th-century Plaza de la Virgen Blanca features a monument to the 1813 Battle of Vitoria. The Church of San Miguel has a sizeable baroque altarpiece and a statue of the White Virgin, the city's patron saint. Beethoven dedicated his Opus 91, often called the " Battle

BAR PACO BUENO This is a very traditional, social club-style, old-school-style Pintxo bar. Many local families mix with tourists, from the young to the very old. The bar is big on boxing, rugby, and Basque rowing, and the surrounding walls are covered with old memorabilia. It is run by owner Paco Bueno (who was a boxer in his younger days ) and his sons. It's lively, entertaining and has a friendly atmosphere. The specialities are deep-fried seafood, such as calamares, but t

BAR TXEPETXA We returned to another favourite. You may have second thoughts when you walk into this traditional bar and see all the retro ceramic anchovy pintos displayed there. Don't…………….. nothing here is false. All the anchovy/boquerone pintxos here are made to order and appear within a few minutes. You pick from the variety of toppings shown on the fish-shaped menu boards at the back of the bar. One has the antxoas (anchovies), and the other board shows the excellent hot

ZAZPI GASTROBAR SAN TELMO MUSEOA Plaza Zuloaga, 1, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain +34 943 50 67 67 www.zazpistm.com UPDATED JULY 2024 On our last visit to Zazpi, we found it had a new home. Not all great cooking happens in a hushed room with linen tablecloths and servers in waistcoats. Zazpi is proof. This restaurant sits in the avant-garde wing of the Museo San Telmo, and the food by new-generation chef Paul Arrillaga is stunning. Zazpi started by serving upscale pintxos

LA RIOJA - LOGROÑO PINCHO BAR CRAWL On our recent trip to La Rioja, we decided to take a pinchos bar crawl down the famous Calle Laurel in Logroño. These were our favourite bars and bites on this hectic but pleasant November evening. BAR CID Travesía de Laurel, 1, 26001 Logroño, La Rioja It is quite literally a hole in the wall and easy to walk past. The traditional Bar Cid has vines and grapes dangling from the wooden beam ceiling above the same pair of men hanging out at th

ANTONIO BAR This is one of the top, more modern pintxo bars with a Restaurant in San Sebastián. It's in a not-so-busy area, a couple of blocks from the Parte Vieja (old town), but it's well worth the detour. It's a great place to visit, whether alone or with friends, to socialise in a casual atmosphere. Many locals stop by to grab a bite and chat with friends before going home. They also serve one of the town's best tortillas (Spanish omelettes). They have ultra-caramelised o

ANDANZA Andanza (luck or fate in Spanish) comes from the same people behind The Rose Gastropub opposite. In its previous incarnation, the restaurant was a William Hill betting shop for over 30 years, so as everyone says to the owners, “I hope your gamble has paid off!” The chef worked formally in Basque restaurant Lurra, and the team carver was from restaurant Brindisa, so they have some of the best food. On a sunny Tuesday evening, we went when most of the customers were eat

Pamplona/Iruña is the historical capital of Navarre/Navara in the former Kingdom of Navarre. It was a medieval Basque kingdom until Castile annexed it in the 16th century. The city is famous worldwide for the running of the bulls during the San Fermín festival, which is held annually from July 6 to 14. This festival was brought to literary renown with the 1926 publication of Ernest Hemingway's novel, The Sun Also Rises. We stayed at, CASA OTANO BAR RESTAURANTE Bajo, Calle de