LA CUCHARA DE SAN TELMO We visited one of our favourite pintxo bars in the old town of San Sebastián. It’s located in a side alley off 31 de Agosto Kalea, at the back of the historic city. It’s definitely worth seeking out, so don’t hesitate to walk in, even if it’s busy. Thankfully, we were no longer under COVID-19 restrictions, and everything had returned to normal. The list of pintxos looked very inviting indeed. The small kitchen staff were hard at work, as usual. We made

HOTELA M&UGA We stayed for three nights in the Basque Country town of Elorrio. The Town stands out for its unique medieval and modern heritage. In 1964, it was declared a Medieval Heritage Site. It is set in a green valley with the river Zumelegi running down its centre. It is a delightful walk through the streets of palaces and ancestral houses, built of stone and carved masonry from the 17th and 18th centuries. We chose to stay in the M&UGA Hotela. The hotel is a minute’s w

Vitoria-Gasteiz is the capital of the Basque Autonomous Community in northern Spain. The Gothic-style Santa María Inmaculada Cathedral features a sculpted facade and towering columns in the medieval quarter. The 17th-century Plaza de la Virgen Blanca features a monument to the 1813 Battle of Vitoria. The Church of San Miguel has a sizeable baroque altarpiece and a statue of the White Virgin, the city's patron saint. Beethoven dedicated his Opus 91, often called the " Battle

BAR PACO BUENO This is a traditional Pintxo bar with a social-club atmosphere, reminiscent of old-school style. It attracts a diverse crowd, including many local families and tourists of all ages. The bar prominently features themes of boxing, rugby, and Basque rowing, with its walls adorned with vintage memorabilia. It is run by owner Paco Bueno (who was a boxer in his younger days ) and his sons. It’s lively, entertaining and has a friendly atmosphere. The specialities incl

BAR TXEPETXA We returned to another favourite. You may have second thoughts when you walk into this traditional bar and see all the retro ceramic anchovy pintos displayed there. Don’t…………….. nothing here is false. All anchovy/boquerone pintxos here are made to order and served within a few minutes. You can choose from a variety of toppings displayed on the fish-shaped menu boards at the back of the bar. One board features the antxoas (anchovies), while the other shows the exc

ZAZPI GASTROBAR SAN TELMO MUSEOA Plaza Zuloaga, 1, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain +34 943 50 67 67 www.zazpistm.com UPDATED JULY 2024 During our last visit to Zazpi, we discovered that it had relocated to a new home. Not all exceptional cooking takes place in a quiet setting with linen tablecloths and servers in waistcoats, and Zazpi was a perfect example of that. This restaurant is now situated in the avant-garde wing of the Museo San Telmo, and the cuisine crafted by the

LA RIOJA - LOGROÑO PINCHO BAR CRAWL On our recent trip to La Rioja, we decided to take a pinchos bar crawl down the famous Calle Laurel in Logroño. These were our favourite bars and bites on this hectic but pleasant November evening. BAR CID Travesía de Laurel, 1, 26001 Logroño, La Rioja It is quite literally a hole in the wall and easy to walk past. The traditional Bar Cid has vines and grapes dangling from the wooden beam ceiling above the same pair of men hanging out at th

ANTONIO BAR This is a top modern pintxo bar with a restaurant in San Sebastián. It’s located a few blocks from Parte Vieja (the old town), making it worth the detour. It’s a fantastic place to visit, whether you’re alone or with friends, and it offers a casual atmosphere for socialising. Many locals stop by to have a bite to eat and catch up with friends before heading home. They serve some of the best tortillas (Spanish omelettes) in town, featuring ultra-caramelised onions,

ANDANZA Andanza (luck or fate in Spanish) comes from the same people behind The Rose Gastropub opposite. In its previous incarnation, the restaurant was a William Hill betting shop for over 30 years, so as everyone says to the owners, “I hope your gamble has paid off!” The chef worked formally in Basque restaurant Lurra, and the team carver was from restaurant Brindisa, so they have some of the best food. On a sunny Tuesday evening, we went when most of the customers were eat

Pamplona/Iruña is the historical capital of Navarre/Navara in the former Kingdom of Navarre. It was a medieval Basque kingdom until Castile annexed it in the 16th century. The city is famous worldwide for the running of the bulls during the San Fermín festival, which is held annually from July 6 to 14. This festival was brought to literary renown with the 1926 publication of Ernest Hemingway's novel, The Sun Also Rises. We stayed at, CASA OTANO BAR RESTAURANTE Bajo, Calle de